Pink, pink, pink... and easy care! And did I mention pink? The Pink Syngonium is just a beauty. I love those heart-shaped leaves (that shape is what gives the Syngonium their 'arrowhead' name). They grow so fast, and are super easy to propagate. Pretty as a princess but definitely not a drama queen. Those delicate pink leaves are fooling you - they are actually super low maintenance once you get the hang of what they love. Find out more about how to keep them happy and healthy, below...
Clues for their care: Where do Syngonium come from in the wild?
Think of Syngonium as a rainforest weed and it'll give you good clues to their preferred conditions. Their natural habitat covers a wide region. Native to Mexico and tropical Central to South America such as Brazil, Venezuela, Peru, Costa Rica and Guatemala, and parts of the Caribbean such as Trinidad and Tobago.
In their natural habitat outdoors, they prefer moist, shady conditions and rich, fertile soil. That doesn't mean we should keep them in low light in wet soil when kept indoors however. More about light and soil coming up.
Syngonium tend to start off more compact and bushy with initial leaves being arrowhead or heart-shaped. As they mature, they will often start to shoot off vines in search of something to climb.
Mature leaves usually change their form into 3 or more segments. Once they climb, the leaves can get MUCH bigger and reach their mature leaf shape faster. Without something to climb they tend to spread as ground cover. They root really easily. In the wild they readily put out advantageous roots as they crawl or climb.
How much light do Pink Syngonium need?
The whole Syngonium family are surprisingly tolerant of low light due, but I recommend medium to bright indirect light for the pink varieties in particular. I'd avoid direct light though, or you may burn those gorgeous but thin leaves.
Keep in mind also that brighter light helps leaves become more pink, but only to a point. Too bright and leaves can fade to green (or too dark and they can revert to green too). I also find mine dry out much faster than they prefer in brighter light, and with their preference for always-lightly-moist conditions, the brighter the light the higher the watering (and the higher the chance of crispy leaves!).
What temperature range do Pink Syngonium prefer?
Syngonium are not huge fans of draughts, or being in the path of your air con or heat pump. Other than that, they're pretty tolerant of a wide range of indoor temperatures. Ideally 15 to 26° Celsius (around 60 to 78° Fahrenheit), but if you get the rest of the conditions right, they do tolerate cooler and warmer. I'd aim to stay above 10° Celsius though (above 50° Fahrenheit).
If you recall their natural tropical rainforest habitat, it'll come as no surprise to hear Syngoniums LOVE higher humidity. Ideally above 50% humidity, but 60% to 70% will be really appreciated.
If kept in an air conditioned or artificially heated home, you may want to invest in a small humidifier but before you do, grab a cheap hygrometer to check humidity is any concern first. I've found misting and pebble trays don't make enough of a difference for my Syngoniums.
What's the best substrate for Syngonium?
Syngonium are in the same family as Aroids (like Philodendron and Monstera), but that doesn't mean a typical aroid mix is necessarily the best match for them. I find mine like it more moist than my other aroids. Syngonium do better being maintained lightly moist, and can be very thirsty when in a brighter light position, so it's best to pick soil that allows for that.
I prefer a relatively rich, soil-based mix for mine. Something with a medium level of moisture retention. Still free-draining and airy so those roots don't get waterlogged (pure potting mix would be a no for that reason).
My favourite for my Syngonium is the Bio Leaf Mix for Moisture Lovers but if you're an over-waterer and need your substrate to hold less water and dry out fast, Bio Leaf Aroid Fine would be a better choice for you. Still a typical, drier aroid mix, but a little finer grade to hold slightly more water.
I tend towards being an under-waterer myself and keep most of my Syngonium in medium to brighter light, so I prefer a mix that holds a bit more water. Otherwise my Syngonium tend to go crispy far too fast.
Syngonium are also great candidates for hydro and semi-hydro. Have a read of the beginners guide to growing in Leca if you're interested in giving it a go.
What water requirements do Syngonium have?
Not too dry, not too wet, evenly, lightly moist is just right. But, if you have to choose, better too dry than too wet, but they won't like being left dry for too long. Crispy leaves, yellowing leaves and leaf drop are all common signs of being too dry.
I water again when the soil is dry down to about half way but I do kept my Synognium in a mix with higher moisture content. If you have yours in a drier, soil-free, aroid-type mix you'll normally want to water when it's dry only about a quarter of the way down.
If you leave it too long they will droop and wilt, sometimes very dramatically and suddenly, and leaves can curl and go crispy very fast. If caught in time they recover fine. I've even had them lose all their leaves, cut them back to little stumpy stems, and they've come 'back from the (almost) dead'.
Which fertiliser is best for Syngoniums?
Although they can be fast growers, I wouldn't call them heavy feeders. I prefer to fertilise 'weekly weakly' which just means fertilising lightly, every time you water (not literally once a week).
My current go-to is GT Foliage Focus or Plant Runner Indoor Plant Food depending on what's in my plant cupboard at the time. Both are higher nitrogen to support a Syngonium's more rapid foliage growth.
Pink Syngonium Pro Tips & Problem Solving
Fading pink leaves / more green leaves
I'd suggest checking your light conditions to solve this one. In my experience those pretty pink leaves will fade if there's too much light. Too little light and I also find my girls revert to more green leaves. Try a new spot for a while and see what the new growth does. I find around the medium end of bright is ideal. It is normal to get a mix of some purely pink, some green, and some in-betweener leaves.
Keep in mind also that there are variations of pink within 'Pink Syngonium'. Yours could be a Syngonium Neon, S. Robusta, S. Red Heart, S. Mickey or another variety altogether.
Vining or climbing?
Not sure if I'd call this a problem as such, but make your Syngonium happy and they will likely start vining if not given something to climb. Once they start to vine they can get quite messy-looking and lose that original compact bushier look when young.
I regularly 'chop and prop' my Syngonium that aren't on poles. When a vine gets too heavy and starts to droop I'll cut off a vine below a node and put it directly back into the soil, or root it in water, then plant it back into the same pot.
Leggy stems
Without enough light Syngonium can get a bit leggy trying to reach for more light. Try a brighter spot to get more compact growth with shorter stems and more leaves. If you have to, trim off those leggy bits and propagate. New growth should come through nice and bushy in the right spot.
Are Syngonium pet safe?
Sadly no, like their Philodendron cousins, Syngonium are not pet safe. Same as Philodendron and Monstera, Syngonium have calcium oxalate crystals which can irritate the lips, mouth, throat and tummy if chewed on or ingested.
So no nibbling or eating those leaves! Keep them up safely out of reach of curious pets and kids (they irritate us too if eaten). Although it would typically take a lot to cause a reaction, some pets (and people) are more sensitive than others, so best not to risk a reaction. Irritation might cause swelling, and swelling and breathing don't really go together. Best kept safely up high.
Is the Pink Syngonium for you?
If you can keep a Philodendron or Monstera happy you should feel confident moving up to a Syngonium. Although they can be slightly fussier with light and water, don't let those delicate looking leaves put you off. They are easier than they look.